Choosing,Climbing,Equipment,an sports Choosing Climbing Equipment and Building a Climbing Rack

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1. Climbing Equipment and Rack for Seconding on a Climbing Wall Climbing Harness– Go to a good climbing shop and try a few on and hang in them. Theharness should be padded on the waist and legs and have a minimum of 5gear loops if you intend climbing outside. The DMM Renegade is a good reference point.Rock shoes– Again you need to go to a shop and ask for advice/try loads on. Rockshoes are a culture shock – your toes should touch the end of the shoe,they should be comfortably tight and if you twist the shoe your footshould twist as well without any slippage. Then once you have yourperfect fit bear in mind that all shoes stretch ..buying shoes for thefirst time is difficult so take your time..The Red Chili Saucilito,Scarpa Vantage and Sportiva Cliff are good starting pointsBelay Device – The DMM bug is good for all-round use, whilst the Petzl Verso and Reverso3 are class leaders.Locking Carabiner for Belay Device – DMM Sentinel, Belay Master or Ultra O screwgate are all goodChalk bag and Chalk– Down to you ….just make sure you can get your whole hand in…essential for sea cliff climbing. Carry it on 1.5mm of 5mm cord thatcan be used as an emergency prusic or abseil tat. 2. Climbing Equipment and Rack for Leading on a Climbing Wall As above plus: Quickdraws for the wall – Think ahead and buy draws that will serve you when you move outside as well. Rope– Walls trash ropes so a lot of people go for a specific short(cheaper) rope for wall use. Mammut Promo in 30m or 40m lengths is agood choice plus it can be used for both leading and top-roping shortroutes outside 3. Climbing Equipment and Rack for Seconding Routes Outside As 1. above plus: Slings: 1 x 120cm and 1 x 60cm slingScrewgates: One small screwgate and one larger mini HMS screwgate.Nut key: A nut key plus a carabiner and short length of cord to carry it.Rescue:Two prusic loops  generally these are formed from 1.5m lengths of 5mmcord tied into an open loop with a double fisherman's knotHelmet – a matter of choice, but most people do these days. 4. Climbing Equipment and Rack for Starting to Lead Outside As 1. above plus: Quickdraws:A minimum of 6 quickdraws if you are climbing on short outcrop routes,but you will need 10 or more quickdraws for mountain routes.Quickdraws  around 18cm in length are perfect for trad with a coupleof  shorter and longer draws.A set of nuts – either DMM Wallnuts or WC Rocks 1 – 11 A set of large nuts – DMM Torque Nuts 1-4 or WC Rockcentrics 5-8Slings:2 x 120cm and 2 x 60cm slings – dyneema 11 or 12mm. Skinny dyneemaslings (8-10mm) are great, but quite unforgiving of user error. Screwgates: 3 x small screwgates and one larger mini HMS screwgate. DMM Phantoms and DMM Sentinel.Individual Carabiners:8 x individual carabiners for racking wires, connecting slings etc. Iprefer keylock solid gates for racking wires and lightweight wire gatesfor connecting running belays…. but this is very personal and somepeople hate keylocks for racking….Nut key: A nut key plus a carabiner and short length of cord to carry it.Rescue:Two prusic loops  generally these are formed from 1.5m lengths of 5mmcord tied into an open loop with a double fisherman's knotHelmet Plus if possible a second set of nuts – of a different brand from our first set. Then after that look at getting a small number of cams The key sizeswhen forming a rack are Wild Country/DMM 1.0, 2.0 and 3.0 or BD Camalot0.5, 1 and 2. One of thebiggest outlays at this stage will be deciding on what ropes to geti.e. a single rope or a half rope. The answer depends on what you wantto do. If you plan to stay on the outcrops or go sport climbing I wouldgo for a 60m x 9.8mm -10.0mm single rope – 60m because all UK climbersgo abroad in the winter and 60m is mandatory in Europe plus a 60m ropelets you do 30m double rope pitches in the UK; also by getting a‘thinnish’ single rope it can be used in a full length double ropesystem at a squeeze. If tradclimbing is going to be your thing then go for an 8.5mm x 50m half ropeand find a partner with a similar rope. You can go for a 60m rope andthe extra length is great for alpine/ice routes, but for most UKcragging you are just lugging around an extra 10m of useless rope mostof the time. Superdrytreatments are not just for keeping the rope dry, indeed for mostclimbers the key advantage of dry treatments is that that increasedurability and decrease drag. 5. Climbing Equipment and Rack for Advanced Leaders on Mountain Routes At this point everything gets very personal and this is what I carry on most long routes. Wires: 3 sets of wires 1-6, double sets 7-10 and one 11. Carried on 4 Shadow keylock screwgates. The wires are a balanced mix of DMM Wallnuts, WC Rocks and DMM Alloy Offsets.Micro Wires:A bit OTT, but I carry about 20 micro wires on most big routes, basedaround the RP2/DMM Imp 2 and 3 and DMM Micro Wallnut 0.5 and 0.75.Carried on 2 Shadow keylocks.Aliens:I always carry the Yellow and Green and often the Blue Aliens – awesomeunits, happily bought before their quality control went AWOL.DMM 4CU’s: 1.0 to 3.0 including half sizes. I really like their lightweight and doubled sling which saves lots of quickdraws.DMM Torque Nuts – 1-3. The best hexes out there.Quickdraws:I carry up to 16 DMM Phantom quickdraws on skinny dyneema – 2 x 12cm, 8x 18cm, 4 x 25cm and 2 x extendable quickdraws based on 8mm x 60cmslingsSlings:2 x 120cm and 2 x 60cm dyneema slingsScrewgates: 1 x DMM Sentinel and 3 x DMM Phantom ScrewgatesBelay device: Petzl Verso or Reverso3.Ropes: 2 x 8.5mm x 50m Mammut Genesis Superdry ropes.Nut key: DMM NutbusterPrussics: 2 x short prussics on one Phantom SG Iwon’t necessarily carry all this – I’ll always check out the routefirst to see if there is any kit I can leave behind or whether I’llneed to double up on some items or whether I can leave anything behind.There is no point in taking a large number of friends up a climb on ablank wall. This way you canreduce the weight and bulk hanging from your waist – this will reducethe speed at which you get pumped, increase the difficulty at which youcan climb and make it easier for you to find the gear on your harness. Choosing the right rack for a route is a skill that improves over time.A good starting point, is to estimate the quantity of quickdraws youwill need by taking the length of the route (i.e. 25m) and divide it byhow often you expect to place protection i.e. every  2m. This will helpyou estimate how many quickdraws that you are likely to need. It is worth remembering that not every placement will need extending i.e. DMM 4CU’s, slings and hexes.