Marc,Jacobs,Fall,2011,RTW,Coll entertainment Marc Jacobs by Marc Jacobs Fall 2011 RTW Collection
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In this years fall collection Marc Jacobs by Marc Jacobs, the designer looked to different visions of cartoonish femininityfrom hourglass-waisted, peplum-hipped, pencil-skirted Dior-era sirens to sex-shop secretaries and dominatrixesthis latter source hinted at by the tufted white patent columns that lined the mirrored runway. House of Harlot produced the shows inventive rubber garments; sheath dresses and skirts worked in fish-scale tiers that took the material to a new level of sophistication.After last seasons hot outbreak of polka dots, Marc Jacobs has his spots sprouting petals for 2012. He took inspiration from 1960s wallpaper prints, and the fabric was sun-bleached to look as if it had been stripped from the interior of a postwar living room. With its closed rubber pencil skirts, the rebellious, ladylike severity of fall gave way to a softer, more innocent silhouette; wasp-waisted strapless dresses and shorts suits were matched with ballet flats and athletic footwear that had satin ribbon for laces. There was, however, an underlying rigor to the collection, and printed buttoned-up-to-the-top shirts came with epaulets which were fastened with military beltsone radzimir silk dress in particular had the stitching of a parka jacket.Marc Jacobs collection had tremendous body, achieved with stiffly bonded or double-face fabrics, rubber, or even lacquered alligator. When they werent molded-to-the-shapely-bodyin silhouettes that evoked early Alaïa and even Gaultierthey were dramatically stand away like that of fifties Balenciaga.While Marc Jacobss playfully austere main-line collection may have moved well away from the disco decadence of spring/summer, his youth-driven Marc Jacobs by Marc Jacobs collection was firmly footed in the sexy, sultry 1970s. That first look on the catwalk said it all: a blazing copper-gold leather blazer atop a rusty-metallic satin blouse, paired with herringbone trousers and lace-up oxfords. And the easy-breezy blown-out hair on the fresh-faced models wearing the luscious disco-by-day ensembles pushed an earthy-glam vision of perfection you couldn't help but want to be a part of. There was also an early 80s edge throughout that was reminiscent of New York punk-rock heroine Blondieand suggested a potential return to a more strict 80s mod-rocking New York style for spring.Given that these clothes will hit stores in time for the holiday season, that utilitarian undercurrent offers interesting new possibilities for party girls looking to reconsider their tried-and-true cocktail dresses. Look past the sparkly sequins and laser-cut leather florals, and essentially sweatshirts, button-downs, and t-shirts are the new building blocks for eveningwear, a casual mood thats been brewing across the board since the fall collections. With his resort rules for party dressing in mind, throwing on a striped gray-marl sweater over a hot-pink dress adorned with delicate appliqué flowers might be the freshest way to celebrate.When he dipped into his own archives for his fall show of a year ago, the results were nostalgic and romantic. With its stride-defying hobble skirts and wedge-heel patent boots, this offering demands a little more commitment from the wearer. It was provocative and somehow more precise, and all those slick surfaces had a hard allure. Backstage, Jacobs talked about the discipline of fashion, pointing out the rigor of fitting 63 girls in one day. Disciplined is a good word for it. He had his uncomplicated fun last season, and now he's prepared to get sweaty in a latex shirt buttoned up to his throat. Give the rest of us a few months and we'll be right there with him.
Marc,Jacobs,Fall,2011,RTW,Coll