The,Replacement,Quattro,Clutch car The Replacement of A4 Quattros Clutch Master and Slave Cyli
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Thisarticle will tell you how I replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders onmy car. Neither I nor Audi World assume any responsibility for accuracy orapplicability to your situation. Read these instructions carefully and take aclose look at an Audi repair manual before attempting this job on your own car.Be sure to get proper torque figures and use a torque wrench to tighten nutsand bolts. The parts you are about to replace are plastic and will deform ifnot installed with some care. Follow all appropriate safety practices andremember that brake fluid is poisonous and should be disposed of appropriately. With99,000 miles on my '98 A4,in very hot weather (>100 degrees F.), occasionally my clutch pedal wouldnot return after being depressed. I was always able to pull the pedal back upwith the tip of my foot, but this was becoming more frequent and happened atbad times. It was not immediately clear if the cause of the problem was themaster or the slave, but the price of the parts suggested that both could bereplaced without breaking the bank. Both parts together came to about $160 andwere delivered to my door without fuss from one of the many parts houses youcan now find on-line. (I used bestforeignparts.com, not the cheapest, butthey include free shipping.) Thisjob will require:Metricsocket set6mm ball headAllen wrench (important!)Smalllong flat blade screwdriverMediumflat blade screwdriverTorquewrenchNewDOT 4 brake fluid in sealed container (1 small can will do)Thejob is pretty straightforward with no surprises. If you've ever replaced abrake or clutch master or slave on an older car you'll be pleasantly surprised.If you've never worked on a car before, get someone to look over your shoulderand teach you how. This is too nice a car to screw up! Preparationfor Master Cylinder Removal Removethe knee bolster / cover under the steering wheel. You'll find that there are 4screws total holding it up. One is under the fuse cover (between the driver'sside door and the dash) at the bottom as you face the fuse panel. Just pry offthe fuse panel cover gently with your fingers; no tools required. The fourscrews that hold up the bolster have 8mmheads. Nextcarefully pry out the two plastic covers that conceal one screw each. Removethem and work your way to the bottom right where you'll find one more screw.The knee bolster will now come clear except for 2 sets of connectors. One isthe under dash footlight and the other is the socket for the diagnosticconnector. Carefully pry the two clips from the light and unplug it. Thediagnostic connector has a little prong which you gently depress to pull theconnector out. Remove the knee bolster and set is aside in a clean safe place.The Audi factory service manual says to remove the engine ECU to gain access tothe hydraulic lines which I did, but I don't believe it's really required. I'dbe interested to know if the mechanics at the dealerships really do this. Ifyou choose to remove the ECU, disconnect the negative battery connection, butbe sure you have the radio code first. Findout more about clutchmaster cylinder and China clutch master cylinder manufacturer by visit rodova.com.
The,Replacement,Quattro,Clutch